William lee



' larged, showing its position upon the leather with re- 4 also showingtheposition ofthe wire in one of the said i described hereinafter. lhe process by which thewrnkfilling the intervening space with cotton, sand, or

4all this is avoided, as the wrinkles, when complete,

and 4, the lower surface of which is provided with a strut dimite.

wILLiAM LEE, or NEW HAVEN, ooNNEorieur. v

Letters Patent No. 100,535, `dared lli/[croit 8, 1870 'antedcted February 26, 1870.

IMPROVEMENT/IN THE c'oRRuGATIoNs or Boor AND snor: UPPERS.

The Schedule referred to these Letters Patent and making part of the same To all whom it'may concern i i Be it known that I, WILLAM LEE, of New Haven State of Connecticut, and county ofNew Haven,1havc invented a new and improved Boot or- Shoe Upper and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact `description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings and to the letters of reference marked thereon; said drawings constitute part of this specili'cation, and represent in Figure 1, side view of -thedevice by which I perform the corrugations.

Figure 2js a top vplan view of the same. 1 Figures 3 and 4 are two views ofthe wrinkler enlation .to the needle.

Figures 5 and 6 are two views of the upper with a. number of coirugations `placed therein, showing the relative position' ofthe lining and upper leather, and

corrugations. 4

My invention consists of a wrinkled boot or shoe upper, in which the wrinkle is held in place without filling by means of a smooth lining, as will be fully ling ispeiformed will also be fully described.

This wrinklinghas been done in a sewing-machine, by stitching two rows across the upper, and afterward other plastic material, and thus form the wrinkle.` Frequently attempts have also been made to perform this wrinklng by me'ans of the common cording de? vice, and for stitchinga cord into cloth or other fabric. All these ways, however, necessitate the use of some kind of filling, and not only make a wrinkle in the upper leather, but also in the lining, which is hard'for the foot, and does not keep its original form, being soon pressed ortlattened out. In my improvement have no filling, and are held in place by the lining, which is perfectly smooth,and consequently easy for the foot.

To enable others skilled intheart to make my improved upper, I will proceed to describe the construction and mannerof making the same.

A is a former or wiinkler, made as shown in figs. 3

groove made of the proper size'required for the corrugations in the leather.

A spring, B, is attached to the said wrinkler forV the purpose of holding `it down upon the leather, and

byit's elasticity allow any slight unevenne'ss in the spring, or uponV the upper side of the plate O, placed midwaybetween the two set screws- I am enabled to vary the pressure upon the wrinkler by tightening the set-screw either forward or back of the projection, as a greater or less pressure is required.

This completes the constructionof the device by which the wrinkle is formed. The operation is as follows:

The lining and upper leather are' first stitched toget-her wherev vthe corrgations or wrinkles are to commence. The wrinklerhere acts as a guide, so that a straight seam may be easily stitched. After this seam has been stitched, the leather is taken out of the machine and a wire is inserted between the upper leather andthe lining. The size ofthe saidwre is governed by the size of the wrinkle to be made in the leather.

After the wire has been thus inserted and forced back against the row of stitches alreadymade, the

. leather is again placed under the needle and wrinkler in such a manner as to bring the wire inserted between the lining and upperleather, as before describedlon gitudinally in the groove in the wrinkle-1 A by the pressure of the spring B upon the said wrinkler. The leather is forced down around the wire, taking the form shown in fig. 6, while the lining lies perfectly flat and smooth upon the table. In this position it is advanced by the feeding device of the sewing-machine, and the y lining and 4upper leather are again stitched together and the wrinkle or corrugation permanently fixed. When this seam has been finished the work is taken from the machine and the wire withdrawn from the corrngation, which retains its position as well without Y vthe wire as with it. rl`he wire is then placed `(in the until a sufficient number f wrinkles have been made.

'I am aware that a groove has been made inthe .presser-foot of a sewing-machine for the purpose of cording garments, but iu these devices thelling is left in the aperture. l,

I do not broadly claim -wrinkling the boot or shoe, asv such is not new v but What I do claim as new and useful, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

A wrinkled boot or shoe upper formed in the manner described, in which the wrinkle is held in' place without iilling by means` of a stantially as described.

` WILLIAM LEE. Witnesses.: y

RUFUsTH. SANFORD, FRANK PREsoorT.

smooth lining, substan- 

